Ribbing is the stretchy band you see at the bottom of a sweater, the ends of the sleeves, around a neckline and at the brim of a hat. It hugs the body a little, so cuffs stay put and hats don’t slide off. Knitters get ribbing by alternating knit and purl. In crochet, we fake that same look and stretch with a few simple tricks.
This guide covers the three most useful types of crochet ribbing, which one to choose for which project, and how to attach it so it looks tidy. Everything is in US terms and uses stitches you probably already know.
What You’ll Need
- Worsted weight (#4) yarn with some stretch, like wool, a wool blend or a soft acrylic
- Hook one or two sizes smaller than your main project (for example, 4.5 mm or 4 mm if your sweater uses 5 mm)
- Stitch markers
- Yarn needle
- Tape measure
- Scissors
Why a smaller hook? Ribbing should be a little snugger than the main fabric. A smaller hook makes it firmer and helps it spring back.
Which Ribbing Should You Use?
| Type | How it’s made | Stretch | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Back loop only (BLO) rib | Rows of sc or hdc worked sideways, BLO | Very stretchy | Sweater hems, cuffs, hat brims |
| Post stitch rib | Alternating FPdc and BPdc | Medium, thick | Hat brims, chunky sweaters, mittens |
| Slip stitch rib | Rows of slip stitch BLO, worked sideways | Very stretchy, thin | Fitted cuffs, necklines, a knit look |
If you’re new, start with the back loop only rib. It’s the easiest and works almost everywhere.
Method 1: Back Loop Only Ribbing (Worked Sideways)
This ribbing is made in short rows that turn sideways. The ridges run up and down, just like knit ribbing.
Step 1: Decide how tall you want the ribbing. A sweater hem is usually 2–3 inches, a cuff 2–3 inches, and a hat brim 2–4 inches (fold-up brims can be taller).
Step 2: Chain until the chain is as long as the ribbing height you want, then chain 2 more. Hold the chain against your tape measure rather than guessing, since every hand and yarn is different.
Step 3: Row 1: Half double crochet in the 3rd chain from the hook and in each chain across. Work these first stitches through the back bump of the chain if you can, for a cleaner edge.
Step 4: Row 2: Chain 2 and turn (doesn’t count as a stitch). Half double crochet in the back loop only of each stitch across. The back loop is the loop farthest from you.
Step 5: Repeat row 2 until the band is long enough. Count rows, not inches, so both cuffs match.
Step 6: For a hat brim or a sweater worked in the round, fold the band into a ring and slip stitch the first and last rows together, working through both layers.
Single crochet BLO makes a firmer, flatter rib. Half double crochet BLO is softer, taller per row and stretchier. Both are great.
Attaching Sideways Ribbing
You have two choices.
Option A: Ribbing first, then the body.
Step 1: Make the ribbing band.
Step 2: Turn it so the long edge (the row ends) is at the top.
Step 3: Work your first round of the body along that edge. A good starting point is 1 stitch in each row end for sc rows, or about 3 stitches for every 2 row ends for hdc rows.
Step 4: Keep going with the body pattern from there.
This is the most common way for hats and top-down or bottom-up sweaters.
Option B: Body first, then the ribbing.
Step 1: Finish the sweater body or sleeve.
Step 2: Attach the yarn at the edge and chain your ribbing height.
Step 3: Work the first row of ribbing back down the chain, then slip stitch into the next 2 stitches of the body edge to join and move along.
Step 4: Turn and work back up in BLO. Repeat, joining to the body every time you reach it.
This method is great for adding cuffs or a neckband after the fact.
Method 2: Post Stitch Ribbing (Worked in Rounds or Rows)
This one grows straight up from the edge, like regular rows. It’s thick and cozy, perfect for hat brims.
Step 1: Start with a round or row of double crochet. You need an even number of stitches.
Step 2: Next round: chain 2, then FPdc around the next stitch, BPdc around the next stitch. Repeat around. Join with a slip stitch.
Step 3: Every round after: work FPdc around the stitches that pop toward you and BPdc around the ones that sink away. Keep the columns lined up.
Step 4: Repeat until the band is as tall as you want.
If working in rows instead of rounds, the “pop toward you” rule still works when you turn, because the right side and wrong side swap.
For a wider rib, use 2 FPdc and 2 BPdc (you’ll need a multiple of 4 stitches).
Method 3: Slip Stitch Ribbing
This looks the most like knitting. It’s thin, very stretchy and slower to make.
Step 1: Chain your band height plus 1.
Step 2: Slip stitch in the 2nd chain from the hook and in each chain across.
Step 3: Chain 1 and turn. Slip stitch in the back loop only of each stitch across.
Step 4: Repeat step 3. Keep the slip stitches loose, or the next row will be impossible to work into.
Use a hook one size larger than you would for hdc ribbing, because slip stitches get tight quickly.
How Long Should Ribbing Be?
Ribbing should be a bit smaller than the part of the body it wraps around, so it hugs.
- Hat brim: measure around the head, then make the band about 1–2 inches shorter. It will stretch to fit.
- Sweater hem: about 10% shorter than the body width at that point.
- Cuffs: measure around the wrist and add an inch or two for ease, or follow your pattern.
Common Mistakes (and How to Fix Them)
- Ribbing is wavy or flared. It’s too long or worked too loose. Use a smaller hook or make fewer rows.
- Ribbing is tight and pulls the body in. Too short, or not enough stitches picked up along the edge. Add a few stitches in the first body round.
- Working in both loops by accident. The ridges disappear. Check every stitch for the first few rows: back loop only.
- Uneven row ends. Your turning chain varies. Use the same turning chain every row and always work into the last stitch.
- Slip stitch rib too tight to work into. Go up a hook size and relax your hand.
- Post rib columns twisting. You worked a FPdc where a BPdc belonged. Look at each column before you make the stitch.
Tips
- Swatch your ribbing and stretch it. If it doesn’t spring back, try a smaller hook or a yarn with wool in it.
- 100% cotton has very little stretch. If your project is cotton, make the ribbing a bit shorter than you think.
- Count rows of sideways ribbing with a row counter so both sleeves come out the same.
- For neat edges on sideways ribbing, place a marker in the first stitch of every row.
- Want a visual guide? Louise Bollanos of Handy Little Me has a free ribbing tutorial showing several methods: Crochet Ribbing Tutorial (Handy Little Me).
FAQ
What is the stretchiest crochet ribbing?
Slip stitch ribbing in the back loop only is usually the stretchiest, followed closely by half double crochet worked in the back loop. Post stitch ribbing is thicker and has less stretch. Yarn matters too: wool and wool blends bounce back much better than cotton.
Can I add ribbing to a sweater that’s already finished?
Yes. Attach your yarn at the edge, chain your band height, and work sideways ribbing back and forth, joining to the edge with slip stitches at the end of every other row. It’s a great way to fix a hem or cuff you don’t love.
Should crochet ribbing use a smaller hook?
Usually, yes. Going down one or two hook sizes from your main fabric makes the ribbing firmer and helps it grip. The exception is slip stitch ribbing, which tends to be tight already, so many people use the same size or one size larger for it.
Pick the method that fits your project, swatch it once, and your next sweater or hat will have a band that looks great and stays put.