The crochet basket weave stitch makes a thick, squishy fabric that looks like woven strips of wicker. It is a favorite for blankets, dishcloths, pillows and cozy hats. The secret is that you aren’t really weaving anything. You are just working double crochet around the posts of the stitches below, some from the front and some from the back, so they pop forward or sink back in little blocks.
If you know how to double crochet, you are ready. This guide explains the two post stitches, gives you easy chain math, and shares one simple rule that tells you which stitch to make on every row so you never lose your place.
What You’ll Need
- Worsted weight (#4) yarn in a smooth, light solid color
- 5 mm (H-8) crochet hook, plus a 5.5 mm (I-9) for the foundation chain
- Stitch markers
- Yarn needle
- Scissors
Basket weave eats more yarn than flat double crochet because every post stitch wraps around a stitch below. Plan on roughly one-third more yarn than a plain double crochet project of the same size.
The Two Stitches You Need
The “post” is the tall, straight body of a stitch, the part between its top loops and its bottom. Instead of putting your hook through the top loops like usual, you go around that post.
Front post double crochet (FPdc):
Step 1: Yarn over.
Step 2: Insert your hook from front to back to the right of the post, then bring it back to the front on the left side. The post now sits on top of your hook.
Step 3: Yarn over and pull up a loop around the post. You have 3 loops on the hook.
Step 4: (Yarn over and pull through 2 loops) twice. Done. The new stitch pops toward you.
Back post double crochet (BPdc):
Step 1: Yarn over.
Step 2: Insert your hook from back to front to the right of the post, then bring it to the back on the left side. Now the post sits in front of your hook.
Step 3: Yarn over and pull up a loop. You have 3 loops on the hook.
Step 4: (Yarn over and pull through 2 loops) twice. The new stitch sinks away from you.
Chain Math
This version uses blocks that are 4 stitches wide, with one plain stitch on each edge.
Chain = 8 × (number of block pairs) + 4
| Block pairs | Starting chain | Good for |
|---|---|---|
| 2 | 20 | Practice swatch |
| 3 | 28 | Dishcloth |
| 5 | 44 | Pillow front |
| 12 | 100 | Baby blanket |
| 18 | 148 | Throw |
A “block pair” is one raised block plus one sunken block next to it.
The Foundation Row
Step 1: Chain your number (20 for practice) using the bigger hook. Switch to the 5 mm hook.
Step 2: Double crochet in the 4th chain from the hook. The 3 skipped chains count as your first stitch.
Step 3: Double crochet in every chain across. For 20 chains, you’ll have 18 stitches. For any size: 8 × block pairs + 2.
This row is a plain base. The basket weave starts on the next row.
The One Rule That Makes Basket Weave Easy
Before every row, look at the stitches facing you. Each block of 4 either bulges toward you or sinks away.
- “Match” row: make FPdc around stitches that bulge toward you and BPdc around stitches that sink away. This makes the block taller.
- “Switch” row: do the opposite. Make BPdc around the bulging ones and FPdc around the sinking ones. This flips the blocks and starts the next layer of the weave.
That’s it. A switch row starts a new layer of blocks, and a match row finishes it. Alternate the two and the checkerboard builds itself.
Working the Pattern Row by Row
Row 2 (first block row):
Step 1: Chain 2 and turn. The chain 2 doesn’t count as a stitch.
Step 2: Double crochet in the first stitch. This is your edge stitch.
Step 3: FPdc in the next 4 stitches, BPdc in the next 4 stitches. Repeat from * across until 1 stitch is left.
Step 4: Double crochet in the last stitch (the top of the 3 chains from the row before).
Row 3 (match row): Chain 2, turn. Double crochet in the first stitch. Work the “match” rule across: FPdc around the blocks bulging toward you, BPdc around the blocks sinking away. Double crochet in the last stitch.
Row 4 (switch row): Chain 2, turn. Double crochet in the first stitch. Work the “switch” rule across: BPdc around bulging blocks, FPdc around sinking blocks. Double crochet in the last stitch.
Row 5 (match row): Same as row 3.
Row 6 (switch row): Same as row 4.
Keep going: match, switch, match, switch. Each block ends up 2 rows tall and 4 stitches wide, and the blocks alternate like a checkerboard. Finish with a match row, then one row of plain double crochet or single crochet to give the top a flat edge.
Want taller, squarer blocks? Work two match rows after every switch row instead of one. The rule still works the same way.
Common Mistakes (and How to Fix Them)
- Working into the top loops by habit. Your hook should go around the post, not through the V on top. If a stitch looks flat, check where your hook went.
- Losing the edge stitches. If your fabric shrinks by a stitch every row, you skipped the edge double crochet at the start or end. Count: block stitches plus 2.
- Blocks shifting sideways. You started a group of 4 one stitch early or late. Put a marker at the edge of each block for the first few rows.
- Fabric pulling in narrower than the foundation. Post stitches tighten the fabric. Use a bigger hook for the foundation row, or work the whole foundation row with a hook one size up.
- Mixing up front and back post. Remember: front post = stitch comes toward you. Back post = stitch goes away. If it went the wrong way, pull it out and redo that one.
- Switching on the wrong row. Use a row counter or write “M” and “S” on a sticky note, crossing them off as you go.
Tips
- Use a smooth, light-colored yarn for your first swatch. You need to see the posts clearly.
- Don’t pull your post stitches tight. Relaxed loops make the blocks look plump and keep the fabric soft.
- Basket weave looks almost the same on both sides, so it is great for blankets and scarves where both faces show.
- Because it is dense, this stitch is perfect for potholders and warm hats, but it can be heavy for a large throw in bulky yarn. Worsted is a good middle ground.
- Once you are comfortable, try blocks of 2 or 3 stitches for a smaller, tighter weave. Your chain math becomes 2 × block width × block pairs + 4.
- Prefer to watch first? Louise Bollanos of Handy Little Me has a free basket weave tutorial with a printable: Crochet Basketweave Stitch (Handy Little Me).
FAQ
Is the basket weave crochet stitch hard for beginners?
It is a great second or third stitch. If you can double crochet, you only need to learn front post and back post, which take a few minutes to get. The hard part is keeping track of which block you are on, and the match and switch rule takes care of that.
Why is my basket weave blanket curling?
Post stitches pull the fabric tighter than regular stitches, so the edges can roll a little. Make sure you work the plain edge stitch on both sides of every row, and keep your post stitches loose. Gentle blocking, by pinning it flat and misting with water, helps it lie flat.
How much yarn does the basket weave stitch use?
More than you’d expect. Each post stitch wraps around a stitch below, so plan for about one-third more yarn than flat double crochet. Make a small swatch, weigh it, and multiply by how many swatches fit into your project size for a good estimate.
Make a 20-chain swatch, follow the rule, and you’ll have a handsome woven square before the end of the day.